A Visit to Kutumsar Caves, Jagdalpur
District, Chhattisgarh State
Recently, I
attended the convocation of Hidayatullah National Law University, Raipur. I was
accompanied by my friend of 35 years and law professor, Vijay Kumar. We went
there essentially to see the National Tribal Museum located at Jagdalpur. As
luck would have it, the museum was closed, so we looked for alternative places
of interest. Thanks to Google, we found the Kutumsar Caves. The name signifies
the nearby village close to the cave. The original name is Gopansar Cave. “Gopan,”
in the local language, means “hidden.” This is a limestone
cave formed in the Kanger Limestone belt, situated on the banks of the River
Kanger, a tributary of the Kolhab River. The entrance to the tunnel itself is a
challenging experience.
Once you
crawl for about six feet, you enter the main tunnel. The main tunnel of the
cave is nearly 200 meters long, with several lateral and downward passages.
Various types of speleothems (ridges or projections from the upper roof/lower
floor of a cave comprising minerals leached through water) can be seen. It is
indeed a different experience. The instructions warn people with claustrophobia
and high blood pressure to avoid this site. These caves are 330 million years
old and located 35 to 55 metres below
ground level.

I am a compulsive traveler and like visiting different places. The only cave I had visited earlier was a very small one in the Baba Budan Hills, Chikmagalur, Karnataka. That was a much smaller cave. I went there without any trained guide and explored it myself. I found the experience scary. I believed that I was allergic to caves and thought I had a phobia of them. The second cave I visited was at Sithannavasal , Pukkukotai district ,Tamil Nadu . naural light fell in this case and it had comfortable stone beds made during 4th century .It was not scary and infact comfortable. https://profmurali.blogspot.com/2026/01/a-visit-to-samanar-padukai-stone-beds.html
In fact, I was in two minds even after
buying the ticket. Each ticket to the cave costs ₹1,100 per person. The money
paid to the Forest Department is more than worth it. They take you in a Maruti
Gypsy with a professional driver. In addition to the driver, a guide
accompanies you throughout the visit inside the cave.
Kutumsar
Caves were created by a natural, very long-term chemical weathering process,
where acidic groundwater dissolved the limestone, creating fissures that
eventually evolved into large chambers. Our guide was Hari Kesh. He was a
local person who had studied up to plus two. In addition to the cave, they took
us to a waterfall located on the River Kanher. Since it was the beginning of
March, there was less water in the waterfall, but it was not very enchanting. I
warmly record my appreciation for both our driver, whose name I do not know,
and Mr. Hari Kesh, the young guide who took us into the cave. They are good and
competent people.
The cave is
subject to frequent flooding during the monsoon season (June to
October/November). The site is closed to tourists during this period. Within
the cave, there are many water pools fed by seepage. The water is colorless and
clean and houses crabs and fish. These crabs and fish are used to a totally
dark environment and normally never see light. Over a period of time, their
eyes become useless or vestigial organs. As there is no light in their
environment, they eventually become blind. Biology is indeed very interesting.
We were told occasionally porcupines visit these caves. It must be a scary
experience to encounter such wildlife in total darkness.
These caves
are limestone deposits. They comprise both stalactite and stalagmite
formations. These formations hang like chandeliers or rise like pillars inside
the cave. It takes about 6,000 years for the formation of one inch of these
stalactites and stalagmites. Considering that some of these formations are more
than six or seven feet long, it must have taken millions of years for them to
form. Conservatively, the place is about 300 million years old.The cave has
been reasonably explored by Indian scientists, assisted by international cave
experts, and it has been professionally mapped. The Forest Department has laid
down a walkway, which at places provides a handrail for support. Though the
cave is just 200 meters long, it takes at least about an hour or a little more
to complete the 200-meter trek.
Within the
cave, there are sub-caves. Exploring these would require crawling nearly 100
meters to see more elaborate cave structures, as seen in the pictures. That was
not for me. Even the main experience was quite humbling.
I always
thought that I had a phobia of caves. Thanks to my friend Professor Vijay and
the competent guide who accompanied us, I was able to complete the visit
without incident. However, I am not sure whether my fear of caves has
completely gone. Nevertheless, I found the experience enjoyable and exciting,
and it took me at least a couple of days to recover fully from its impact.
Stalactites
are formations hanging from the roof of the cave, and stalagmites are
formations rising from the ground. In this cave, you find both.Within the cave,
there is a stalagmite that is surprisingly similar to a Shiva Linga. This
natural Shiva Linga is worshipped by the local people. They visit the cave in
large numbers during Shivratri.
While we
were walking out of the caves, We also met two women. One of them was a Delhi
lawyer also an Advocate on record, Supreme
Court. The other was the mother a Trademark Lawyer. They told me that they had
come from Delhi just to visit this cave. I asked them if they were not scared
to visit the cave and trek inside. They said they were not scared and that they
enjoyed trekking inside the caves. Truly empowered women. I have their oral
permission to post their pictures. About me I must admit I wad scared. Whether I
will do it again ,I am not sure .but if I have an encouraging friend like Prof.
Vijay, why not?
What’s with lawyers and caves?
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